Sunday, August 21, 2011

Jewelry School Part 5, The Last Day


The final day of the course was all about re-tipping and re-pronging stone settings. Re-tipping was actually easy, or it seemed so because I did it correctly the first time. All you have to do it heat a small ball of solder and place it on the prong to be re-tipped without having the ball 'migrate' down the prong. It was all about torch control. To round out the top of the prong we used a cup bur. This bur is unforgiving when it comes to cutting yourself as it is takes a 'core sample' rather than cutting you open. Blaine said he did this once and it took a long time to heal, very painful. We were all thrilled to be using it.

Blaine then lightened the mood by saying "Make sure you choose a size that flows loosely around the top of the prong, and make sure it isn't too small. If you use say, this one, (here he held up a very small bur) then it won’t be able to go fully around. We call this one 'The Yarmulke'". At that comment we couldn't help but laugh.

The ruby that was in the setting held up well to the heat of the torch, 3,700F, and turned a dark color when heated, then it turned back to its regular hue. I had the worst feeling that the stone was going to explode and hit me in the face.

The next task that day was to re-prong, two different ways. The first was to cut back the prong so that it could be filed at an angle to accept a new top. The part being put on had to also be filed accurately so it would fit onto the top at a 90 degree angle. It may sound confusing and it did, until I saw it done. The filing was important, as was holding the wire up after putting a ball of solder on the end of it. It was more of a free hand joint that we had to make, but we had had practice with this technique when doing the three stone ring, so it was easier this time around. Mine turned out a little sideways, but Blaine, (he had a trick for everything) showed us how to fix it using capillary action. If you heat the prong and the solder pick behind it carefully you can then push the piece back to position. This was a small miracle.

The second re-prong was to be done by cutting the prong halfway down and making a whole new piece from sheet stock. Using the old sheet we had used the first day we all cut out a piece around the size we would need. Next we were to use a four square file to make the girdle of the stone fit into it. This took a while but was of utmost importance. Eventually the piece was put into place and soldered together.

After lunch Blaine took is into the polishing room where we would learn some aspects of finishing our pieces. He had this polish that was mainly used on platinum that he used on most things now. It made everything look amazing and he had shown it to Tiffany's when he was helping to set up one of their factories. On a side not: Everything that Tiffany's needs worked on valued at over $100,000 they send to him. This was hands down the best polish I had ever used and I will surely bee buying some. Everyone who was not in the room, he took us in in small groups, was free to work on whatever they wanted.

Some people had to drive a long way home so a couple left early. We said our goodbyes to one another it was assured that a couple people were most likely coming back for the twelve week course. It was good to find this out as I would know some people from the get go. This is going to be at the end of January so I have some time to practice all the things I learned. One of the greatest things about the course is that the school is likely moving to Nashville, Tennessee! I've heard this is close to southern paradise as it gets. I can't wait to go back but I'm nervous all the same. What a journey it THAT be.

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